Name of experiment: Coloured
Lipstick Formulation
Date of experiment: 24th
March 2016
Lecturer: Prof. Madya Dr. Haliza
Kaatas
Group members:
1. Alicia Ong Su May (A152332)
2. Tasneem binti Mahayudin (A152348)
3. Mohamad Azmi bin Isahak (A153317)
4. Nor Afiqah Bt Mohd Nasir Tan (A154096)
5. Abdul Hafiz bin Zakaria (A144377)
Group members:
1. Alicia Ong Su May (A152332)
2. Tasneem binti Mahayudin (A152348)
3. Mohamad Azmi bin Isahak (A153317)
4. Nor Afiqah Bt Mohd Nasir Tan (A154096)
5. Abdul Hafiz bin Zakaria (A144377)
INTRODUCTION
Lipstick
is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that
apply colour, texture, and protection to the lips. Lipsticks are made to appeal
to the current fashion trend.
Lipsticks exist in many different
types and colours. Lipsticks are usually worn by women but there are also a few
men who wear lipsticks to cover their lips. The use of lipstick dates back to
medieval times. Some lipsticks are in the form of lip balms, to add colour and provide
hydration to prevent the lips from drying out. The function of lipsticks is to
enhance the pout and fullness of a woman’s lips, and it also brings a mood,
aura, or emotion to her face.
Lipstick
contains wax, oils, antioxidants and emollients. Wax provides the structure to
the solid lipstick. Lipsticks may be made from several waxes such as beeswax,
ozokerite and candelilla wax. Due to its high melting point, Carnauba wax is a
key ingredient in terms of strengthening the lipstick. Various oils and fats
are also used in lipsticks, such as olive oil, mineral oil, cocoa butter,
lanolin, and petrolatum. In the early period, lipsticks of limited colours were
produced such as red. But now, there are lipsticks of various colours such as
pink, orange, violet and even black.
OBJECTIVES
1.
To differentiate the different function of the
ingredients in each formula.
2.
To understand the rationale and function of the
different type of formulation of the lipstick.
3.
To evaluate the quality of the products.
APPARATUS
1.
Evaporating dish
2.
Water bath
3.
Electronic balance
4.
Weighing boat
5.
Glass rod
6.
Thermometer
7.
Measuring cylinder
MATERIALS
1.
Castor oil
2.
5 different coloured pigments
3.
Mica pigments
4.
White beeswax
5.
Cocoa butter
6.
Vaseline
7.
Honey
8.
Paraben
PROCEDURES
1.
All ingredients were weighed respectively on an
electric balance.
2.
2.0g of white beeswax, 1.5g of cocoa butter,
1.0g of vaseline and 1.0ml of honey were mixed and heated on a water bath.
3.
15ml of castor oil, 1.0g of blue pigment and
0.5g of Mica pigments were added and stirred until homogenous.
4.
The mixture was removed from the water bath.
5.
3 drops of paraben were added into the mixture.
6.
The hot mixture was poured into a small transparent
container and left to cool.
7.
Steps 1 to 6 were repeated 4 times by varying
the colour of pigment and the amount of beeswax, cocoa butter, vaseline and
honey.
8.
All the 5 formulations were evaluated by using
melting point test and stability tests.
RESULTS
Chart of colour shading of all
formulations
Formulation 1
Phase A
|
Phase B
|
Phase C
|
15mL Castor oil
|
2.0g White beeswax
|
3
drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
|
1.0g D&C blue pigment
|
1.5g Cocoa butter
|
|
0.5g Mica pigments
|
1.0g Vaseline
|
|
1.0mL Honey
|
Formulation 2
Phase A
|
Phase B
|
Phase C
|
15mL Castor oil
|
2.5g White beeswax
|
3
drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
|
0.5g D&C purple
pigment
|
2.0g Cocoa butter
|
|
0.5g Mica pigments
|
1.3g Vaseline
|
|
1.5mL Honey
|
Formulation 3
Phase A
|
Phase B
|
Phase C
|
15mL Castor oil
|
1.5g White beeswax
|
3
drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
|
0.5g
D&C red pigment
|
0.8g Cocoa butter
|
|
0.5g Mica pigments
|
1.5g Vaseline
|
|
2.0mL Honey
|
Formulation 4
Phase A
|
Phase B
|
Phase C
|
15mL Castor oil
|
1.5g White beeswax
|
3
drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
|
0.7g D&C gold pigment
|
0.6g Cocoa butter
|
|
0.5g Mica pigments
|
2.6g Vaseline
|
|
1.5mL Honey
|
Formulation 5
Phase A
|
Phase B
|
Phase C
|
15mL Castor oil
|
3.0g White beeswax
|
3
drops Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solutions)
|
0.9g D&C green
pigment
|
0.8g Cocoa butter
|
|
0.5g Mica pigments
|
2.0g Vaseline
|
|
2.0mL Honey
|
Evaluation of
lipsticks:
Tests
|
Formulation 1
|
Formulation
2
|
Formulation
3
|
Formulation
4
|
Formulation
5
|
Melting point test (time taken to melt at
constant temperature of 600C) / minutes
|
2 min
2 sec
|
57 sec
|
1 min
1 sec
|
1 min
31 sec
|
3 min
59 sec
|
Stability study at 40C
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Harden and unchanged with little water droplets
appear
|
Stability study at 20-250C
|
Normal
|
Normal
|
Normal
|
Normal
|
Normal
|
Stability study at 30-400C
|
Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
|
Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
|
Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
|
Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
|
Starts to melt, become oily and sticky
|
 |
Melting point test
Observation: The product melts.
|
 |
At room temperature (20ºC)
Observation: The products remain
unchanged.
|
 |
In ice (4ºC)
Observation: The
products hardened.
|
DISCUSSION
Lipsticks are
designed to improve the natural appearance of lips. Not only it involves colour
change but it also increases shine and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and
folds on the lips. When lipsticks are applied, a waxy product film is left
behind on the lip surface. The colour components of the lipstick block the
natural surface colour, changing it while the film components help keep the
colour attached to the lips.
In this experiment,
we prepared five different formulations and colours of lipstick. Each
formulation has three phases which are Phase A, Phase B and Phase C. Phase A is
the preparation of colour dispersion while Phase B is the preparation of wax
base which involves the blending of oils and Phase C involves the adding few
drops of methylparaben solutions. Paraben is used as a preservative is most
cosmetic products to prevent bacterial growth.
For the
formulation 1 in phase A, our group used 1.0 g of blue pigment while in phase
B, 2.0 g of white beeswax, 1.5 g of cocoa butter, 1.0 g of Vaseline and 1.0 mL
of honey. For formulation 2 in phase A, 0.5 g of purple pigment is used
together with largest amount of white beeswax which is 2.0 g, 2.0 g cocoa
butter, 1.3 g of Vaseline and 1.5 mL of honey. On the other hand, formulation 3
has the red pigment with 0.5 g. In phase B, 2.5 g, 2.0 g, 1.3 g and 1.5 mL of
white beeswax, cocoa butter, Vaseline and honey were added respectively. For
formulation 4, we used 0.7 g of gold pigment then mixed with 1.5 g of white
beeswax, 0.6 g cocoa butter, 2.6 g Vaseline and 1.5 mL of honey. Lastly, 0.9 g
of green pigment was used as the colour of lipstick then mix with the largest
amount of white beeswax among the other formulation which is 3.0 g and together
with 0.8 g of cocoa butter, 2.0 g of Vaseline and 2.0 mL of honey. Overall
formulations were randomly added. During the process of making the lipsticks, a
temperature of 60°C was used during the heating on the water bath.
To ensure the lipsticks
are of good quality, several tests were applied on the lipsticks which are
melting points test, breaking load test and stability test at 4°C, 20-25°C and
30-40°C. For the melting point test, we took half of the lipsticks from each
container and put into the porcelain glass and heat it at 60°C. The time taken
when the lipstick started to melt was recorded. Overall, 57 sec to 4 min were
the range of the time taken. The time taken to melt for Formulation 5 (green) is the longest compared to the other formulations. This is because Formulation 5 contains the most beeswax (3g). The function of beeswax is to strengthen the structure and provide hardness to the lipsticks. However, we should be aware that lipstick should not be
used under hot climate because it tends to melt and is unstable. Varying the
proportion between the beeswax and cocoa butter can affect the melting point of
the lipsticks. Generally, the lipstick with the highest proportion of beeswax
will have higher melting point. For stability test, we recorded the observation
after placing the lipsticks under several conditions. At normal room
temperature which is 20-25°C, all of our lipsticks are in normal state. There
were no changes on the lipsticks and the colour remains the same. At 4°C, all
our lipsticks were placed in a beaker containing ice and the result was
obtained where all the lipsticks remain unchanged and harden with the
appearance of water droplets. For the stability of lipsticks at 30-40°C, the
lipsticks were left under the hot sun. As the result, all the lipsticks start
to melt. They also became oily and sticky.
The drawback in
our experiment is that we did not add vitamin E acetate to our formulation
because it was not available in our lab during that moment. Thus, our lipsticks
did not contain vitamin E which acts as an antioxidant, protects against UV
from sunlight and improves the levels of hydration in the lips.
CONCLUSION
At
the end of the practical, our group members have
gained more knowledge on lipstick preparation through this experiment. We were able to differentiate
the different functions of each
ingredient in the formula and evaluate the quality of our products. In order to
prepare the lipsticks, we have performed the required procedures correctly to
obtain a quality product. As mentioned earlier, five different formulations and
colours of lipstick were prepared. For
melting point test, the lipstick with the
highest proportion of beeswax will have the highest melting point, which is Formulation 5 (green). This is because beeswax provides hardness and strengthens the structure of lipsticks. The lipsticks also started to melt after being exposed under the hot sun. Based on the tests
carried out to evaluate the quality of our lipsticks, our lipsticks are not of
high quality because the change in
formulation results in different effect on the characteristic of the product. We also found that the colour of
lipstick can vary as the colours were obtained from different pigments or lake
dyes.
REFERENCES
3. http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/cdc/indelible.php
4. http://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_function_of_lipstick
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